Preparation of the Track
Pre-bend the track to a much tighter radius so that it springs back to roughly the radius required.
Notes: You will find that Peco “Fine Track” will be more difficult to bend than their “Universal” Track system.
Such pre-bending of Fleischmann ballasted flexi-track is not advised.
Preparation of the Base
It is advisable to lay the track on a thin layer of cork, the thickness ultimately dependant upon to depth of ballast visible - more for main lines, very little or none for sidings. Stick down the cork along the required track bed, using latex cork tile adhesive. A cork base helps to reduce noise.
Joining the Track
Position the track where required, flexing the track again if necessary. Fit fish-plates to the ends of the rail to be joined, cutting away the plastic rail chairs, and easing the rail upwards. After fitting, there will be a slight ‘hump’ in the track - apply a soldering iron to the rail and hold down the rail with a flat, non-metallic object. This will cause the fish-plate to melt into the underlying plastic slightly, thus eliminating the hump and leaving the rails level.
Notes: Ends of the track cannot bend easily, so pliers, or hand vice may be required.
The outer rail becomes shorter and so the inner rail will need to be cut to appropriate length.
Pre-Checking Clearances
As with all track, it is strongly advised to lay the track in position before finally fixing down, to check it against existing platforms, walling, and other close-to-track scenic items. Push down longest and widest locos / rolling stock to be used, checking for adequate clearances.
Gluing down the Track
Use the same latex glue as used to stick down the cork. Alternatively, for a quicker fix use Evostick “Time Bond”, or for slower, use PVA.
Notes: For straight track, use a long steel ruler, positioned along one of the rails.
For consistent bends, use a Track-Setter.
Do an eye check at track level - view through a mirror to see more track in focus.
For sidings, it often more prototypical to let the track be un-level, and have slight kinks in the track run.
Run a heavy flat object over the track, an old clothes iron is ideal, to ensure that the track is stuck down all along its length. Use heavyweight items to hold the track down until dry - leave overnight if possible.
Note: Do not use track pins, fixed through sleepers, to hold down the track - this tends to bend the sleepers, and can tip the rails inwards. It is better to hold down the actual rail.
Board Joints
Bolt boards together, aligning horizontally, and vertically, but insert a spacer between the boards so that there is a slight gap. Lay the track over the board, and when fixed down, part the track using a razor saw. The gap between the boards should be just wide enough to fit a razor saw, and thus ensure correct positioning and alignment. Angle the saw into the gap and cut through the rails.
Alternatively, for straight track, lay the tracks separately on each board. Fix down the track on one board, aligning to the board edge. Bolt the boards together, aligning horizontally, and vertically, and fix down the track on the other board aligning track using fishplates or a straight Track-Setter.
Rail ends need additional fixing to avoid damage in transit. Attach a piece of copper clad board to the base-board, and solder the rails to the copper. Cut a groove into the copper cladding, in between the rails to eliminate any electrical ‘shorting’ problems. Alternatively, if the rail base is firmly stuck down, just apply ‘super-glue’ to physically join the rail to the sleepers - this can take awhile to set properly.
